Oil Pump

I'm not afraid to put a new engine in White Horse, whenever that day may come. But I'm also happy to tend to any repairs that can be done to keep this one running strong.

This original 6.0 V8 shows no signs of quitting. In 5,000 miles, she will burn about a quart of oil. Not enough to make me even think about an engine swap.

But you need good oil pressure. About two years ago she started running at about 30psi at idle. But when revved up a bit, she'd get back to 40psi. However, within the past few weeks, she has been hanging around 25psi all the time. And, until the oil got warm, she'd run dangerously low. So we set out to put a new engine oil pump. 

Dave's shop in Gillette was our work space of choice. This is definitely a plan your work and work your plan kind of job. First thing was to make sure we had all the right tools. 

I'm a creeper guy. Ole Blue has served me well for the past 20+ years. 

Here's what we were after. Not a sump pump in the pan like I'm used to. This style runs off the front of the crank. 

Chevy Vortec engines have actually been around since the 80s in V6s. In the mid 90s they started making the V8s with Vortec technology, and the power difference was noticeable! From my understanding, the feature of the Vortec has to do with good atomization of the fuel with the air in the combustion chamber. In the early 2000s they stopped making the standard Chevy small block and rolled into this newer LS V8. Tough engine. 

 

First step was to disassemble the front end; water pump and anything in the way of the timing chain cover. 

Getting the bolt out of the front end of the crankshaft was about as big of challenge as anything. Finally, this Milwaukee 1/2 impact did the trick. 

Then with a puller, we removed the harmonic balancer. 

That would be great if that was all the deeper we had to get. But because there is a siphon tube that goes from the pump to the bottom of the oil pan, we had to remove the oil pan too. Which, entails dropping the front differential. 

Some guys will wear protective gloves. But, I still prefer skinned knuckles. 

A good way to avoid whacking your hand, though, is by keeping an open palm when busting loose bolts. 

A few bolts and down she went. 

With that gone, we were able to expose the pan and drop her down. 

Then back up to remove the timing chain cover and reveal the oil pump. 

This job was not for the faint of heart. Most bolts were barely in reach. 

Money.

I actually think this o-ring was the biggest part of the problem. It seals the suction line to the pump. I wasn't going to replace it until I felt how loose it sat in the pump. I bet it caused the pump to suck a lot air as it was trying to bring up oil. Especially when cold. 

Of course, we replaced the pump too. 

While we had the front end out, I wanted to replace the leaky axle seals as well. The drivers side you can just pop loose with this pickle fork tool. However, the passenger side you have to go in deeper. 

Here's an old farmer trick to give your end wrench a bit more leverage. 

After we disassembled the 4-wheel-drive engager, we were able to pull a clip, which allowed the axle to slide out. 

Then removed and replaced the seals. On these 1tons, everything is heavier. 

Then back in we put it. 

To top off the pumpkin with oil, just fill till it comes out the side plug. 

After we reassembled the front end of the motor, we filled her back up with fresh 5W-30. 

Muy bien.

The hardest part was the clean up. Where Dad when you need him. 

On the road again. 

Solid fix. The oil pressure jumps right up to 40psi at start up and stays there. I bet I can get another 100k out of this 6.0 with good oil pressure. Cheap fix for a big improvement. I'm glad we went through the effort. Could've had a shop do it, but where's the fun it that!? Special thanks to Dave for his shop and to Jared for keeping the trouble light out of my eyes. Ranch on.