Dad's 4010

If Dad's 4010 could talk, it would speak of revolution and Americana, of hard work and perseverance, of many hands and no quit. But most of all, it would speak of character. You can't buy battle scars, only earn them. The John Deere 4010 is an American icon, and Dad's is no exception. 

Dad's family bought this tractor new in 1964. It was the big tractor around the farm until about 1968 and the main farmhand until about 2000 when she was put to pasture. Around then, Grandpa gave the tractor to Dad and he has kept her going ever since. This past summer, though, the hydraulic pump gave out and this week we set out to change it. 

Dad and Uncle Lloyd already had the front end removed by the time I got home. They were sharing old memories of who put what ding where and how much this tractor revolutionized farming for their family. 

Putting a farmhand on a tractor is the worst thing you can do to it. Super handy, but terribly hard on the front end. Hard to say how many times this guy has been welded up. Manure, hay, feed, dirt, gravel... you name it, she's hauled it. Though it's stout now, the last 25 years around our place has been no walk in the park, either.

Though it didn't totally die, the hydraulic pump no longer delivered the volume of fluid to make the loader very functional. 

Once we got it out, we were able to change the brackets and fittings to the new one. 

Up she went. A few modifications, but not many. 

There were a lot of different lines to hook back up. 

Vibration is a killer to hydraulic lines. Where there is steal, it's best to brace them and cushion them with rubber. 

Once plumbed back in, we started her up to look for leaks before we put the front end back together. 

Back in the day, it was not uncommon for the guys to swap the duel front end to a single wheel for planting and such. 

Giddy up. 

With her running well, we put the tin back on. 

And reattached the loader. 

Back in business. 

If there was ever an image of my dad on wheels, it would be of a John Deere 4010. And not just any 4010, but this Lungren owned and operated, time tested and true, all work and no quit, still going strong after 60 years, 4010. Every time I grab the wheel this warhorse, I think of all the men who have worn it down to the metal. If Dad's 4010 could talk, I know what she'd say, Let's ranch!

Spring Gates

With the weather now getting warm, Uncle Lloyd and I decided to hang a couple gates. 

This is the northwest corner of the pasture. The 20' continuous fence panels ended about 6' before the corner post. So we decided to hang a saddle horse gate in its place. 

Springtime is prime time to burn grass. Better be ready to tend to fires if you're welding on the prairie. 

Good 270 degree turning radius. 

Should work. 

Next, was Grandpa's old white gate. This guy was originally hanging inside the barn. I think outside will do it well. 

To fit the gap we added a length of 2 7/8" to one side and welded it to the old hinge brackets. This also allowed us to have a way to mount the wood gate to the metal fence. 

Not being as tall as the other fence, we just split the difference from top to bottom. 

Simple mounting. Before we welded on the continuous fence panels, we dropped these pipe sleeves over the posts to serve as hinges. Then just welded a flat strap from one to the other. 

Giddy up.

Two down, six to go. Walk through gates are just as important as full-size grates. You want them functional, but also stylish. Think we checked both boxes. On to the next one. 

Wisdom

 Knowledge combined with experience.

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Prepare for Trials

When setting out to follow the Lord.

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Oil Pump

I'm not afraid to put a new engine in White Horse, whenever that day may come. But I'm also happy to tend to any repairs that can be done to keep this one running strong.

This original 6.0 V8 shows no signs of quitting. In 5,000 miles, she will burn about a quart of oil. Not enough to make me even think about an engine swap.

But you need good oil pressure. About two years ago she started running at about 30psi at idle. But when revved up a bit, she'd get back to 40psi. However, within the past few weeks, she has been hanging around 25psi all the time. And, until the oil got warm, she'd run dangerously low. So we set out to put in a new engine oil pump. 

Dave's shop in Gillette was our work space of choice. This is definitely a plan your work and work your plan kind of job. First thing was to make sure we had all the right tools. 

I'm a creeper guy. Ole Blue has served me well for the past 20+ years. 

Here's what we were after. Not a sump pump in the pan like I'm used to. This style runs off the front of the crankshaft.  

Chevy Vortec engines have actually been around since the 80s in V6s. In the mid 90s they started making the V8s with Vortec technology, and the power difference was noticeable! From my understanding, this feature of the Vortec has to do with good atomization of the fuel with the air in the combustion chamber. In the early 2000s they stopped making the standard Chevy small block and rolled into this newer LS V8. Tough engine. 

 

First step was to disassemble the front end; water pump and anything in the way of the timing chain cover. 

Getting the bolt out of the front end of the crankshaft was about as big of challenge as anything. Finally, this Milwaukee 1/2 impact did the trick. 

Then with a puller, we removed the harmonic balancer. 

That would be great if that was all the deeper we had to get. But because there is a siphon tube that goes from the pump to the bottom of the oil pan, we had to remove the oil pan too. Which, entails dropping the front differential. 

Some guys will wear protective gloves. But, I still prefer skinned knuckles. 

A good way to avoid whacking your hand, though, is by keeping an open palm when busting loose bolts. 

A few bolts and down she went. 

With that gone, we were able to expose the pan and drop her down. 

Then back up top to remove the timing chain cover and reveal the oil pump. 

This job was not for the faint of heart. Most bolts were barely in reach. 

Money.

I actually think this o-ring was the biggest part of the problem. It seals the suction line to the pump. I wasn't going to replace it until I felt how loose it sat in the pump. I bet it caused the pump to suck a lot air as it was trying to bring up oil. Especially when cold. 

Of course, we replaced the pump too. 

While we had the front end out, I wanted to replace the leaky axle seals as well. The drivers side you can just pop loose with this pickle fork tool. However, the passenger side you have to go in deeper. 

Here's an old farmer trick to give your end wrench a bit more leverage. 

After we disassembled the 4-wheel-drive engager, we were able to pull a clip, which allowed the axle to slide out. 

Then removed and replaced the seals. On these 1tons, everything is heavier. 

Then back in we put it. 

To top off the pumpkin with oil, just fill till it comes out the side plug. 

After we reassembled the front end of the motor, we filled her back up with fresh 5W-30. 

Muy bien.

The hardest part was the clean up. Where’s Dad when you need him. 

On the road again. 

Solid fix. The oil pressure jumps right up to 40psi at start up and stays there. I bet I can get another 100k out of this 6.0 with good oil pressure. Cheap fix for a big improvement. I'm glad we went through the effort. Could've had a shop do it, but where's the fun it that!? Special thanks to Dave for his shop and to Jared for keeping the trouble light out of my eyes. Ranch on. 

Golden Rule

Do unto others what you would have then do unto you.

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Forward

Jesus is not behind or way ahead, but in front of us. Follow Him!

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